Walking Whittier: A Compact but Dramatic Port
Whittier is the smallest cruise port in Alaska, and walking the entire town takes less time than most passengers spend in the ship’s buffet line. But what this tiny settlement at the head of Passage Canal lacks in size, it makes up for in raw, dramatic scenery. Towering peaks of the Chugach Mountains rise directly from the waterline, hanging glaciers cling to the cliffsides above town, and waterfalls cascade down the rock faces after a rain. For a self-guided walking tour, Whittier delivers an intensely concentrated Alaskan experience.
Whether you have 45 minutes before boarding your Gulf of Alaska cruise or a few hours to kill after disembarking, here is exactly what to see on foot.
The Small Boat Harbor and Waterfront
Start your walk at the cruise terminal and head directly to the Small Boat Harbor, located steps from where your ship docks. This compact harbor is the working heart of Whittier, filled with commercial fishing vessels, charter boats, and the tour boats that run glacier cruises into Prince William Sound.
Walk the length of the harbor docks and soak in the views across Passage Canal. On a clear day, you can see hanging glaciers draped across the mountains on the far side of the fjord. Sea otters are commonly spotted floating in the harbor waters, and bald eagles perch on the mast tops of fishing boats. The entire harbor loop takes about 20 minutes at a relaxed pace.
If the Lazy Otter Cafe is open, grab a coffee or a bowl of their seafood chowder on the waterfront deck before continuing your walk.
Begich Towers: A Cold War Relic
From the harbor, look east toward the massive 14-story concrete building that dominates Whittier’s skyline. This is Begich Towers, one of the most unusual residential buildings in America. Originally constructed in 1953 as the Hodge Building to house military personnel stationed at this remote Army port, it was converted to civilian condominiums after the military departed in the 1960s.
Today, nearly every year-round resident of Whittier lives inside this single building. It contains apartments, a small post office, a general store, a laundromat, and even an indoor tunnel connecting to the local school so children do not have to walk outside during brutal winter storms. You cannot enter the building as a tourist, but walking past the exterior and appreciating its sheer scale against the mountain backdrop is a quintessential Whittier experience.
The Buckner Building Ruins
Visible from multiple points around town, the Buckner Building is Whittier’s other massive Cold War structure. Built in 1953 as a military housing and recreation complex, it was once called the City Under One Roof and could house over 1,000 soldiers. The military abandoned it in the 1960s, and it has been deteriorating ever since.
The building is a haunting, photogenic ruin with broken windows and crumbling concrete walls framed against the mountains. However, you must not enter it under any circumstances. The structure is severely compromised with collapsing floors, exposed asbestos insulation, and unstable concrete. Multiple injuries have occurred from trespassers falling through floors. View and photograph it from the road or harbor area at a safe distance.
Horsetail Falls
For a slightly longer walk, head south along the road past Begich Towers toward Horsetail Falls. This seasonal waterfall cascades down the rock face of the mountains behind town, fed by snowmelt and rainfall. The walk from the cruise terminal takes about 15 to 20 minutes on a paved road. The falls are most impressive in June and July when snowmelt is at its peak. There is no formal trail or viewing platform, but the falls are clearly visible from the road.
Views of Passage Canal and Beyond
The real attraction of walking Whittier is simply standing still and taking in the scenery. Passage Canal is a deep, narrow fjord surrounded by mountains that rise over 3,000 feet directly from the water. Glaciers hang in the valleys above, and on overcast days, clouds thread through the peaks in dramatic fashion. Walk to the western edge of the harbor for the best unobstructed views down the length of the canal toward Prince William Sound.
Practical Notes
Whittier receives over 200 inches of precipitation annually, making it one of the wettest places in Alaska. Bring a waterproof jacket even if the forecast looks clear. Temperatures at the harbor hover between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit in summer, noticeably cooler than Anchorage due to the fjord winds. Wear layers and sturdy walking shoes. The entire walkable area of town is flat and paved, so no special hiking gear is needed for the basic town tour.